This post is also available in: Italiano (Italian)

I had long had a trip to Laos and Cambodia on my list. In fact, they were two countries I had sampled on a trip to Thailand in 2015. In Laos, I had even been just 30 minutes, just long enough to check out a little market during a tour that landed us in the country at the point where the Mekong River divides Laos, Thailand, and Myanmar.

In Cambodia, on the other hand, I had been able to enjoy the wonderful site of Angkor, but I wanted to go back there to see the worst of that country as well, namely the evidence of the regime that killed millions of people in the 1970s.

I went alone, in January 2025 and for a total of 13 nights; but with practically 4 days of travel to get there and back, plus a half day for internal travel between Laos and Cambodia. In both countries you cannot get there directly from Italy.

Elaborate facade of a Buddhist temple in Laos, with yellow and red colors
One of the many Buddhist temples seen in Laos

Travel to Laos and Cambodia, planning mistake

Small outdoor altar in the courtyard of a Buddhist temple in Laos, yellow and white in color, richly detailed
An outdoor altar in the courtyard of a temple in Vientiane
Giant Buddha lying down, and golden, in Vientiane
Golden Buddha near the main temple in Vientiane

The months leading up to the trip were very intense: work-wise; because of my mother’s health problems; because of starting to write this blog. So also due to lack of time I neglected the planning of the trip by relying too much on the famous paper guidebook that, like many, I usually take. I did not compare it enough with other sources, and because of that I got the itinerary wrong.

The guidebook was out of date; as happens to especially less touristy destinations. But a lot had changed in recent years, especially that Laos was no longer the isolated country with inconvenient and long internal connections. The Chinese within a couple of years had built a modern and efficient rail network, and this, in addition to changing the country, would be determinant for my itinerary choice.

I discovered this only shortly before I left, when I had already booked accommodations. The printed guidebook had other serious inaccuracies that later gave me organizational problems.

Had I known about the railroad earlier, I would have chosen a route with more nature (now more easily accessible) and less time in the cities.

These were my stages:

  • Vientiane
  • VangVieng
  • Luang Prabang
  • NongKhiaw on the NamOu
  • Phnom Penh (Cambodia)

On my google maps the map.

Incredible tangle of power cables at a Vientiane intersection
Even the tangles of electric cables by the roadside for me are a masterpiece

Prologue Alternative New Year’s Eve

Something that seemed brilliant to me but, if it disappointed my expectations, it was not only because of me, it was the day before departure.

Detail of the golden Pha That Luang temple in Vientiane
The Amazing Pha That Luang in Vientiane

The flight was from Malpensa at 1 p.m. on January 1. At that time with resounding problems with the Italian rail network, I would not have trusted leaving at dawn the same day. Spending the night of the 31st in Milan would have been a bloodletting, sad as well. I found a hotel dinner right in front of Malpensa, at an acceptable price considering. They assured me at the reservation stage that I would not be the granddaddy of the party.

It had been at least 20 years since I had done such a thing, and I fantasized that I would find some other travelers like me. By the way, in the budget I had not considered the 10 euro shuttle to get to the hotel anyway and the deposit of almost 100 at the airport for dress and shoes that I certainly could not have brought with me to Laos.

But more importantly, taking out the DJ’s two companions, his colleagues from a private radio station, I found that I could have been the father of 98 percent of the participants. They put me at the table with these two, who were disinclined to dialogue. For the rest were tables of 20-year-olds who knew each other. For goodness sake a few twentysomethings in their twenties are not a bad sight, but when I think that in third place among the acceptable songs were ex equo the 4 (four!) of 883 that I detest; you will understand why I went to bed very early.

Patuxai Square, with fountain, triumphal arch and lots of people in Vientiane, capital of Laos
Patuxai Square and triumphal arch in Vientiane the small capital of Laos

First lessons learned from the trip to Laos and Cambodia

  • Never trust a single source for travel planning
  • I’m old for dinner parties

In this article, the trip I took to Thailand and part of Cambodia: Trip to Thailand and Cambodia: Buddhist temples, stray dogs, and a female lawyer

Next stop Visiting Vientiane and accommodations in Laos.

Two colorful tuc tucs, seen everywhere during the trip to Laos and Cambodia, are bee cars equipped to load passengers
Of course on a trip to Laos and Cambodia I took a tuc tuc many times

Trips taken, travel stories divided by continent

Countries visited in my travel stories

Anecdotes, divided by type in travel narratives

newsletter strange things traveling

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author avatar
Fabio Viroli
Ho sempre avuto tante passioni, ma da sempre più o meno latenti, le principali sono viaggiare e scrivere. Tra le altre cose ho una laurea in psicologia; ho fatto per più di 30 anni l’allenatore di basket; leggo tanti libri; sono stato molto appassionato di sport e di musica rock; e faccio improvvisazione teatrale. IL mio primo romanzo, che non parla di viaggi, si chiama LE TUE GAMBE SONO BELLE COME LE TAGLIATELLE