This post is also available in: Italiano (Italian)

The really strange thing about this trip happened to me while visiting Luang Prabang. What is rightly considered the most beautiful city in Laos, I already liked just because of the name: how many places have rhyming names?

I was also intrigued by Luang Prabang’s signature dish(Or Lam ): it’s a soup of meat, lots of vegetables, a Mekong seaweed, and chunks of wood not to be eaten! I savored it on one of the many eateries on the bank of one of the two rivers in whose confluence the old town is wedged.

A Buddhist temple in Luang Prabang, with its sloping roof and decorations
One of the many times in Luang Prabang

Culinary and non-food experiences in Luang Prabang

An altar outside the courtyard of a Buddhist temple in Luang Prabang, Laos.
Outer altar
All-white outdoor altar in the courtyard of a temple in Luang Prabang
Another external altar again in the curtain of a temple

In the evening many people go to the food market located at the beginning of the main street, where the incredibly neat night market is also set up. Of the various stalls each one makes different food, and in the center is a large plaza with communal tables. That evening in the big screen they were showing the soccer match, I think of the Asian Cup, between Vietnam and Thailand. It was well attended because of the many tourists. I ate an excellent pork barbecue.

Punctually at 2 a.m. I awoke from the burning heat. As usual there was no switch next to the bed, but before going to bed I had equipped myself and knew that I had a small bottle of water at hand, yet to be opened, and taken in the afternoon in a little store. I didn’t even look for my glasses, groping around I easily found the bottle and cane tried to quench my thirst.

Phew!

I am still in disbelief. When I realized it I also thought that no one would believe me, but I didn’t even know how to have proof. I also made a second attempt to verify that it had not been a dream, but no…it was indeed so.

It was Grappa!

I knew there was a business of illegal production and sale of homemade alcohol. I assumed that bottle had ended up in the wrong place, and I was not careful enough to check that the cap was sealed. At the time I even thought about filing a complaint, imagining if it had happened to a child. Then I decided it wasn’t worth it and I would just get in trouble; I know the police in certain parts of the world, better not to deal with them. I had another half bottle of real water, and got back under the sheets, but it was not easy to get to sleep.

Plastic bottle in which I found schnapps instead of water
This is the incriminating bottle

Reflection on Buddhism and their being seraphic

Statue of a Buddha on top of an elephant
Sometimes there are variations on the theme of Buddha statues
Two dragon statues at the edge of a corridor leading to a hilltop temple in Luang Prabang
Dragons are also often seen in Buddhist symbolism

Only in these countries can such a thing happen. Both because of their being a bit rough, but also very seraphic. Walking around Buddhist temples to me comes to compare with our churches.

The symbol of the Catholic religion is a strong and bloody image. Religiously themed paintings and statues often depict the martyrdom scenes of saints. Statues of the Buddha, on the other hand, portray him as calm, serene, sometimes smiling; often seated or even lying down.

If I could have chosen as a child, with the knowledge of my character as an adult, I probably would have been a Buddhist.

In this link, the article with the video I made in a temple.

Reflections on Luang Prabang tourism yes/no

Today it is possible to reach every destination, all beautiful places are touristy in some way. Fewer and fewer are those that have retained at least some of their authenticity. Old towns in Western cities have the shopping streets with the same stores and people all dressed at the same pier; this in my opinion, is rather boring.

Laos is not yet a tourist destination, partly because until very recently it was not easy to get around. It has the potential to become one because there are beautiful places, in my opinion mostly naturalistic ones, and especially now there is the rail network. This is inevitably changing the country; droves of Chinese are coming in every day, so also money and other infrastructure. This is inevitably leading to the loss of some of the authenticity; but to say it is bad absolutely is selfish Westerners. If more money comes into the country, at least some of it will result in more prosperity. The challenge will be to balance between having facilities that can accommodate tourists with a focus on maintaining some identity.

Luang Prabang is the most touristy city and I am convinced that until a few years ago it was more beautiful and genuine. But still there are no high-rise buildings and people mind their own business enough.

Above all, unlike neighboring countries, there is no sex tourism. You don’t see pathetic 70-year-olds with possible grandchildren on their laps; bars full of drunken Westerners waiting; you don’t get picked up by sad little girls and boys with the usual catchphrases.

Elaborate interior of a temple, with decorations in both ceiling and columns
Interior of a temple

Links

Home trip Travel to Laos and Cambodia with inadequate guide

Previous stop Food in Asia (I like it) and stomach ache on the plane

Next stop Hot air balloon ride and talk on the road

A commercial building with the appearance of a temple in Luang Prabang
The style of Buddhist times influences everything

Trips taken, travel stories divided by continent

Countries visited in my travel stories

Anecdotes, divided by type in travel narratives

newsletter strange things traveling

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Fabio Viroli
Ho sempre avuto tante passioni, ma da sempre più o meno latenti, le principali sono viaggiare e scrivere. Tra le altre cose ho una laurea in psicologia; ho fatto per più di 30 anni l’allenatore di basket; leggo tanti libri; sono stato molto appassionato di sport e di musica rock; e faccio improvvisazione teatrale. IL mio primo romanzo, che non parla di viaggi, si chiama LE TUE GAMBE SONO BELLE COME LE TAGLIATELLE