This post is also available in: Italiano (Italian)

We closed the trip on a high note by visiting Lisbon and Sintra. When you are in pairs you make fewer acquaintances, but we had nice situations that I generalize into friends of friends.

While visiting Lisbon anyone goes to the square, white Belem Tower on the Ocean
Belem Tower I dont know how I managed to fotioraf it at a time without people in front of it either

Did Alberto Tomba get fat?

While visiting Lisbon we took a couple of culinary shenanigans from clueless tourists; notably in the beautiful Praca de Commercio a very expensive lunch after which we were hungrier than before; a disappointing cod croquette in the beer museum where there was no beer museum. Fortunately the hottest bathroom in the world was closed, otherwise we would have gotten screwed there too. In the Belen area we got mugged by the Earthquake Museum, where other than 5 minutes sitting on a fake dancer church pew, we did not understand why we had spent 25 euros.

My friend was intomulated by a Senegalese man who, in my opinion, depending on the nationality of those he meets, tells different anecdotes before selling necklaces. In particular, he tells the Italians that he lived with us and thanks to Pope Woytila (as if by direct intervention) they gave him the opportunity to have a residence permit. Then he explains that before Rome, the capitals of Italy were Turin and Florence.

Knowing that I live not far from Bologna, he asked me about Alberto Tomba. He became very interested when I told him that I had seen him a few times. One in the restaurant right near my house and then he asked me if he got fat. Who knows, maybe this will give him cues for more anecdotes to turn out to be nice; although I would love to know what he tells the Germans or the French.

A giant stuffed tiger on the roof of a tuc tuc in Lisbon
Beautiful the life of stuffed tigers in Lisbon

Visiting Lisbon

On the first day we found the cathedral, which in Portuguese is called Sé, closed. We indulged in puns like, If I know it’s Sé, let’s go up to the Sé. To go up to the castle almost everyone takes the old streetcars or various means with drivers coming up with all kinds to get noticed.

We walked up through the picturesque alleys of the old Alfama district. At the castle, however, we did not enter.

Azulejos in Lisbon, are ceramics with a white background and designs in light blue; whole walls are a great eye-catcher
Azulejos also in Lisbon

We toured the length and breadth of the historic center destroyed by the super earthquake + fire + tidal wave of 1755. The fact that it was completely rebuilt (with the first urban plan in history) with checkerboard streets and standardized buildings somehow gives you the feeling of living history. That tragedy is considered the greatest natural disaster in modern times (100,000 deaths in a population of 270,000).

On the second day from Lisbon we went by train to Sintra (featured photo). Amidst considerable crowds, we chose to visit (booking well in advance) the National Palace; the Quinta da Regaleira (beautiful park and with the well/tunnel that runs through a good chunk of it); and the super-iconic Palacio de la Pena.

Elaborate entrance to the de la Pena palace in Sintra, with towers and elaborate geometric decorations
Entrance to the de la Pena palace in Sintra

We devoted the last day to the Belem district, where everyone goes for the famous tower; for the monastery of San Geronimo; and for the most famous of the countless bakeries producing Pastel de nata, the typical Portuguese sweet. Of all these attractions, however, I must say that perhaps the one I enjoyed most was the carriage museum, where there are more than 70 beautiful ones.

Detail of a statue representing a demon in the facade of a palace in Sintra
How many ugly mugs represented in the buildings of Sintra

The president of Ghana, Harry Styles and his friends, are not our friends of friends

Going back to talking about lines, which in general were not a few, a notable one was the one we had to do under the sun for the monastery of San Geronimo (beautiful, but less so for those who have already seen Tomar, Batalha and Alcobaca).

It had been closed all morning because of the visit of the president of Ghana, who came out just as we arrived; so we saw the whole parade with the many horses escorting him. We could also consider ourselves lucky, but my reflection was on the fact that hundreds of people were stranded and one of the most visited monuments in the country was closed for half a day, for the little tour that an authority has to do.

The richly elaborate and extensive interior garden of the monastery of St. Jerome in Lisbon
Cloister of the monastery of St Jerome

Airport conjecture

When traveling, I enjoy imagining who a person or group of people I see may be or what they may be doing. In the airport at the gate to go home, we noticed a small group. They seemed very friendly, all quite massive and kind of rocker bikers, tattooed and dressed in black.

We thought of a group of ultras or a motorcycle club, or members of who knows what association on a more or less cultural outing. They all had attached the same tag to their carry-on luggage for possible loss, but I could not read it. The group continued to grow, girls also arrived. All between 25 and 45 years old, there were a couple of distinguished types and a few with more eccentric looks. By the nametag it was obvious that they belonged in the same group. All spoke English and with distinctly Anglo-Saxon accents.

Continuing to speculate, we thought they might be fans of some rock band and were on their way to a concert. But if they were British, why go through Lisbon to go to Italy?

They could have been the concert! I noticed one with a musical instrument case, so we did a search on the net. It was the staff of Harry Styles (former One direction that I did not recognize). Musicians, dancers, technicians etc….(even a couple of agitated but composed fans) who were on their way from Lisbon to Reggio Emilia for the last date of a 2-year world tour.

Columns worked with geometric designs in the balcony of the cloister of San Geronimo
Other details of St Jerome

Last moments of the Lisbon visit

Before we reached the airport, however, we had managed to make one last show of organization and effectiveness, considering the different opening times we made the rounds of the 3 churches we had left behind in time to catch the subway and get to the gate on time.

St. Dominic’s opened at 7:30 a.m., but we got there comfortably by taking our time getting ready and had breakfast with the last pastel de nata. Destroyed by the earthquake and then another fire in 1959 it is very distinctive with an obvious redone roof and blackened or partially ruined marble columns. Then we went to the Cathedral and the Carmo church, which was completely uncovered. On the metro early enough even for a mishap (breakdown on the line), we even made it in time to get a sandwich for lunch to be made during the flight: perfecto!

Home travel Drinking port in Porto with the beautiful figueira, perfecto!

Previous stop Drinking in Portugal and also sleeping and eating

Homeless church destroyed in 1755 fire, a must-see on a visit to Lisbon
Carmo Church without the roof unmissable in the visit of Lisbon

Trips taken, travel stories divided by continent

Anecdotes, divided by type in travel narratives

Countries visited in my travel stories

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author avatar
Fabio Viroli
Ho sempre avuto tante passioni, ma da sempre più o meno latenti, le principali sono viaggiare e scrivere. Tra le altre cose ho una laurea in psicologia; ho fatto per più di 30 anni l’allenatore di basket; leggo tanti libri; sono stato molto appassionato di sport e di musica rock; e faccio improvvisazione teatrale