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The tour to Bolivia was one of the most complex to plan and I must say, my organizational gem. It went really smoothly, almost. Let’s say the organization achieved its goals, but then I messed up a few things of my own. I went in August 2024, and it was an 18-day solo trip. I almost always used public transportation, except for a couple of almost mandatory English tours.

Bar at the airport in Santa Cruz, the sign indicates that they have both croissants and panettone
As soon as I arrived in Bolivia at the airport in Santa Cruz I could have had breakfast with a nice slice of panettone

The goal was essentially one, to see those places I had identified as must-see; to experience a little bit of the everyday life of the country while avoiding getting sick as I did last time in the Andes, but also possible problems in a country that is not super organized and not too safe.

For those who don’t know, gringo is an appellation used in South America to identify Westerners, particularly Americans, which is not always positive. If in Asia they think I am a German or an Englishman, in Bolivia several times I have been thought to be an American and called that, though except once, never with negativity.

Interweaving of electric caciques at an intersection, I've seen many around Bolivia
Around Bolivia of strange situations for a Westerner one sees many

Itinerary and tour map for Bolivia

In the itinerary I also indicate the altitude of the various cities, something to take into consideration when you go there.

One of the many flamingos seen
Of flamingos I have seen many in the plateau
  • Arrival in Santa Cruzde la Sierra (2 nights) 417 m.
  • Domestic flight to Sucre (2 nights) 2720 meters
  • Domestic flight to Cochabamba (1 night) 2550 meters
  • Daytime bus to La Paz (3 nights) 3660 meters, arrived in the afternoon
  • Night bus, departure 21:00
  • Arrival at 7:00 a.m. in Uyuni (1 night) 3670 meters
  • Salar de Uyuni tour (2 nights), reached 5000 meters
  • Return to Uyuni (1 night)
  • Morning bus to Potosi (1 night) 4070 meters
  • Sucre (1 night)
  • Domestic flight to Santa Cruz de la Sierra (1 night)

On my google maps the map.

As you can see there are no less than 3 internal flights, the country is very large and I had my days numbered. To make some money I had chosen to do a night on the bus as well, partly because there was no alternative and despite the fact that some sources advise against being out and about after dark. To visit the Salar de Uyuni one has to join an organized tour.

A brown-and-white llama looks at me curiously as it is grazing in an almost dry river
Llamas on the other hand are seen everywhere

Why Lone Gringo

Cathedral of Santa Cruz de la Sierra, colonial, with the two tall towers
The cathedrals of the main cities are imposing and manicured

In Peru I chose to go with an organized group. Mainly because, suffering from high blood pressure problems, I was afraid that thealtitude would give me trouble. I thought being in a group would be useful for me. I was actually sick and spent a night with the oxygen tank. The coordinator helped me, and the agency took care of the tedious part related to medical care insurance.

Simple Bolivian home painted white and pink
Off center housing is simple this original

This time I decided to go alone, because I could choose a route with a more gradual ascent and thus a chance to acclimatize better. In addition, I knew that I would have to cope with any sickness by staying in bed and changing the itinerary. I believed that I could accomplish this better on my own, without the worry of having to be waited on, followed, or necessarily join a group.

Studying possible stops and transportation well, I chose to avoid some of the destinations offered by organized agencies and stopped at a few places where I was probably the only foreigner. In particular, I was not interested in Lake Titicaca, half in Peru, which I had already seen. At all I was not planning to go on what is called the road of death that is done downhill on bikes. But neither was I going to ride around where Che Guevara went. Having never done that, it didn’t seem right to start in Bolivia of all places. In the Amazon rainforest, on the other hand, I would have gone there, but it would have taken me a long time; I will see it on another occasion.

A worrying crack furrows the wall of my room in Cochabamba
Security is questionable even in hotels
Classic Andean highland panorama, towering mountains in the arid, boundless desert
Classic panorama of the Andean plateau

Tree-lined street of tall cacti in a Bolivian highland village
In the plateau there is no vegetation as we understand it no trees but many cacti even large ones

Group of women dressed in their traditional costume, very colorful and with the classic bowler hat on their heads
Most of the women are dressed in traditional costumes which change color depending on the area they come from

But do you know what you have done?

This was the phrase spoken to me over the phone, a brother a week before departure. The other big concern about the trip was related to crime. If there is one area of the world where special attention needs to be paid, it is certainly South America. In particular, Bolivia is the poorest country in the area, and as a neighbor who has traveled the length and breadth of it says: sooner or later everyone gets a gun pointed in their face.

Padlock with which to lock my room in the salt hotel near the Salar de Uyuni
Room locking systems can also be rudimentary

In addition, a few weeks before my departure, there had even been a coup d’état, or perhaps a mock coup d’état, in any case, the situation in the country was uneasy.

A lawyer's office, with the lawyer at the door, directly on the street and with shop-like signs
Lawyers office

Well, with all these concerns, and working on various arrangements, I left the house armed with care and organization to avoid unpleasant situations.

As usual, I had left my relatives in charge of watering the plants in my apartment. They went after a week because it rained on those days. I had left the living room window open. Apart from possible thieves, after the week of rain with more wind, I would have found my sofa soaked and to be thrown away.

Under the trees in a square, an elderly lady dressed in traditional clothes fiddles with a smartphone
Tradition and modernity
Yb dancer with a band orchestra behind him at a performance in the square
Parades and performances by the countrys bands are frequent and with a large following

Next stop Public transportation in Bolivia

In this article, a spectacular selection of Videos from Bolivia

Me standing on the railroad tracks from Bolivia to Chile crossing the desert
Me lone gringo in Bolivia only serious photo

Trips taken, travel stories divided by continent

Countries visited in my travel stories

Anecdotes, divided by type in travel narratives

newsletter strange things traveling

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author avatar
Fabio Viroli
Ho sempre avuto tante passioni, ma da sempre più o meno latenti, le principali sono viaggiare e scrivere. Tra le altre cose ho una laurea in psicologia; ho fatto per più di 30 anni l’allenatore di basket; leggo tanti libri; sono stato molto appassionato di sport e di musica rock; e faccio improvvisazione teatrale